What Is Selvage?
The selvage is the self-finished lengthwise edge of woven fabric. It forms during weaving where the weft yarn turns at the outer edge of the cloth. Because this edge is built into the fabric rather than created by cutting, it normally resists fraying.
Selvage or Selvedge: Which Spelling Is Correct?
Both spellings are correct and refer to the same textile feature. “Selvage” is especially common in American sewing terminology. “Selvedge” is also widely used, particularly in textile terminology and British English. The meaning does not change with the spelling.
Where Is the Selvage on Fabric?
A woven fabric normally has two selvages, one along each long side of the yardage. They run parallel to the warp yarns and the lengthwise or straight grain. If fabric comes from a bolt, the selvages extend along the length that is unrolled from the bolt.
What Does a Selvage Edge Look Like?
The edge may look tighter, denser or slightly different from the main fabric. Printed fabric may have registration marks, color dots, manufacturer information or an unprinted strip near the edge. Some selvages have small loom holes or a noticeably firmer hand. Appearance varies by fabric and manufacturing method.
Selvage vs. Raw Edge
A selvage is produced as part of the woven cloth. A raw edge is produced when the cloth is cut. The selvage generally does not fray, while raw edges of many woven fabrics can unravel unless they are enclosed, stitched or otherwise finished.
Selvage, Warp and Fabric Grain
The warp runs parallel to the selvage. That makes the selvage a useful visual reference when establishing the straight grain for pattern placement. The weft runs across the width from one selvage to the other, and the bias lies diagonally between the lengthwise and crosswise grain directions.
Should You Cut Off the Selvage?
Often, yes, when the selvage is tighter, stiffer, distorted, punctured or printed differently from the usable project fabric. Leaving a tight selvage inside a seam can sometimes pull or pucker the surrounding cloth. If the selvage is flat and compatible with the project, whether it must be removed depends on the pattern, seam placement and intended finish.
Can You Use Selvages in Sewing Projects?
Yes. Clean decorative selvages can be saved for patchwork, labels, narrow strips and other creative uses. Their density and behavior can differ from the main cloth, so they should be treated as a distinct material rather than assumed to behave exactly like the fabric body.
How Selvage Affects Fabric Width
Fabric width is commonly described from selvage to selvage, but usable cutting width can be smaller. If a calculator asks for selvage loss or usable fabric width, subtract the portion that cannot be used for the actual project. This matters when determining how many pieces fit across the width and how much linear yardage is required.
Selvage FAQ
What is the selvage of fabric?
It is the self-finished lengthwise edge formed during weaving where the weft turns at the edge of the cloth.
Does the selvage run with the grain?
Yes. The selvage runs parallel to the warp and the lengthwise straight grain of woven fabric.
Is selvage the same as a raw edge?
No. Selvage is formed during weaving. A raw edge appears when the fabric is cut.
Why is the selvage sometimes tighter?
The loom-edge structure and finishing can make the selvage denser or firmer than the fabric body. The degree varies by fabric.
Do I include the selvage when measuring fabric width?
Store or manufacturer width may be stated edge to edge, but for project calculations use the width that is actually suitable for cutting if the selvages need to be excluded.
How can I find the straight grain from the selvage?
The lengthwise straight grain runs parallel to the selvage. Pattern grainline markings are commonly aligned parallel to this direction.